#17720 Issues with the camera using analog mode

Open Created by @BSwan - 8 comments

From @BSwan 28.09.2024, 15:26

I've been trying to get the analog mode to work consistently with my Android phone. The issue seems to be the auto focus. When trying to do a pit stop, the camera tries to focus in on the top of the car which causes false laps and pitting in both lanes. This seems to be less of an issue with just regular lap counting without pit stops since the cars cross the path of the camera at a medium speed. The best that I can tell the only way to lock the focus on my phone is by holding down on the camera screen while using the regular camera mode, this feature seems to be disabled when using the camera in SmartRace connect. Would it be possible to be able to lock the focus while using the app?

#1 From @bswan 28.09.2024, 20:44

It turns out that I'm able to get it working by reducing the overhead lighting. It seesm that too much light causes the camera to be really sensitive which leads to a bunch of false triggers.

#2 From @smartrace 29.09.2024, 21:03 Owner

Thanks for reporting this, I'll investigate it.

Cheers,
Marc

#3 From @bswan 30.09.2024, 13:50

Just a little more info, at least on my setup using an Android phone the camera is really sensitive to lighting and shadows. The camera does try to focus during pit stops so I do think turning off auto focus once the camera focusses once would be a good to help with the stability of the lap counting and pit stops. On a large track, having the camera say on the back strecth where no marshals will be near the camera should work fine. On a smaller track, I think the best option is to build some sort of bridge to enclose the phone and then put a dim light on the underside of the phone. This will prevent overhead lighting and shadows from drivers from interfering with the lap counting.

#4 From @sergimd 14.10.2024, 11:15

I'm having similar issues, tested with both iphone and android phones. I 3d printed a bridge as bswan was suggesting, and added some led ligths to get rid of the shadows. When pointing the phone directly vertical to the track, from a short distance, I have the same problems with autofocus on pitstops.

I also tried to use the same support to focus from a longer distance. The focus problem is gone but then I have auto-exposure changes on pitstops, which triggers both lanes. Here's a video showing the subtle changes in exposure that triggers the problem at long distances (and I'm using sensitivity at 100, the lowest). Tested also increasing and decreasing the refresh rate, same results.

Ability to lock both focus and exposure probably will help with this situations. Thanks for your time!

#5 From @bswan 14.10.2024, 15:20

Just some updates -

1) I can get good results with just using my phone on a tripod with low overhead lighting. This works good except the sensors can be triggered by shadows if reaching across the track to get a car. Otherwise, it works fine. 

2) I then built a box and used a portable LED light to light the inside. The box just has an opening for the cars but is otherwise covered on all the sides and the top. I cut out a window for the phone camera and set the phone on top of the box. The light is on the inside. I can get good results if I diffuse the light with a semi-opaque sheet of plastic over the light so it isn't as bright. At least, on my phone, it seems to work the best with low light. Too strong of a light tends to bounce off of other cars and makes the sensors too sensitive.

SmartRace analog is otherwise an awesome app. It's just getting the camera sensors to work correctly that can be a challenge. I think the ideal solution would be some sort of a 3rd party analog sensor track that communicates with the SmartRace app.

#6 From @bswan 21.10.2024, 15:40

Sergimd,

I just watched your video and the problem looks to be that you have too much light. Too much light bounces off the cars and can trigger the other lane. I also recommend turning your phone 90 degrees so that the wide part of the mobile screen goes across the track.

After doing a lot of testing, I have found that it's best to have somewhat of a dim and even lighting. I built a bridge that has two LED push lights from Dollar Tree. I then covered the entire lens of each light with a thin piece of Evergreen .010" thick black styrene and then added a second 1 inch diameter disc to the center to further diffuse the very center of the light where the LEDs are located. I would say that I'm getting about 99% accurate lap counting but with a few more adjustments should be getting 100%. One thing that you can do if your getting missed laps, is to expand the zone for that lane. You can also adjust the spacing between the zones if you notice that one lane is sometimes triggering the other lane. Please see the picture for the underside of the bridge.

#7 From @smartrace 21.10.2024, 18:04 Owner

Thanks for sharing, @bswan - would you mind creating a simple manual for what you did with some more pictures which I could then put on the website to help others who have the same issues? That would be awesome!

#8 From @sergimd 22.10.2024, 00:31

Thanks for taking the time to review it. I tried your suggestions but for it to work I need to dim the lights so much I won't be able to race on daytime. At a minimum light it still triggers both areas (see attachment). It seems we are putting so much effort controlling the amount of light of the room when it would be so much flexible for different setups to control the amount of light the camera is getting.

@smartrace, I recorded a second video showing what is happening in low light, in bright light and a possible fix using the Android camera as an example. I also try to replicate the focus problem @bswan is having, and the same solution to fix both focus and exposure would solve it.

https://youtu.be/P4_eXaxDdJE Sorry for my slow english, maybe its best to watch at 1.5x or 2x ;)

Best regards

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